Camera Axe 3.0 Builders Guide

By: Maurice Ribble

11/14/2009 Version 1.0

The Camera Axe hardware and firmware are open source under a Creative Commons Attribution 3.0 License.

Required Tools

  • Soldering iron and solder

  • Scissors

  • Pliers or wrenches

  • Small Philips screwdriver

  • Drill

  • 1/16th, 1/4 and (1/2 or 5/8 depending on on/off switch type) inch drill bits bits

  • Center punch is recommended

  • Wire cutters

  • Hot glue gun (or thick glue for plastics would also work)

  • Flux remover spray (rubbing alcohol and a toothbrush also works)

Parts

Image

Qty

Description



1

Plastic Enclosure

6.69 in L x 3.34 in W x 1.33 in H

Has 9 V battery door



1

Serial 16x2 LCD



1

Custom Circuit Board

Eagle files are open source here



1

ATMega168

With Arduino bootloader and Camera Axe software loaded


If you did not buy the kit you will need to use the Arduino software to load the Camera Axe Software onto the device



1

28 Pin DIP Socket



1

Optoisolator

LTV847


If you damage your camera using a high voltage flash this is the part you'll need to replace



1

16 Pin DIP Socket



1

16 MHz Crystal



1

5V Regulator

LM7805



3

0.1 uF Capacitor



2

22 pF Capacitor



2

10 uF Capacitor



4

npn Transistor

PN2222



1

DIP16 10k Ohm Resistors

BC0919



1

SIP8 47 Ohm Resistor Array



1

10K Ohm Resistor



6

High Quality Push Button



1

Mini Push Button



1

2 hole 3.5 mm Screw Terminal



1

3 hole 3.5 mm Screw Terminal



4

3.5 mm Jack



1

9V Battery Plug



1

Break Away Header


or



1

On/Off Switch

or

Other On/Off Switch



1

9V Battery




3 inch green wire

3 inch black wire

3 inch red wire

1 ½ inch red wire




1

Small piece of 3 x 2 x ¾ inch foam with double sided sticky tape on one side (Purchase a local packing or craft store)



1

Clear Label (L175CX)


If you are not using the kit you can get the pdf printout here.



Circuit board Assembly



Image

Description



Place the 16 MHz Crystal into the circuit board as shown. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold it in place. Flip the board over and solder it into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Place the two 22 pF capacitors into the circuit board as shown. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold them in place. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Place the three 0.1 uF capacitors into the circuit board as shown. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold them in place. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Put the 16 pin socket into the circuit board as shown. There's a notch in the socket which should line up with the notch in the image of the socket. The notch will help you align the microchip when you install it later. Turn the board over and hold the socket in with a finger, tack two corners pins to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.



Put the 28 pin socket into the circuit board as shown. There's a notch in the socket which should line up with the notch in the image of the socket. The notch will help you align the microchip when you install it later. Turn the board over and hold the socket in with a finger, tack two corners pins to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.



Put the BC0919 microchip into the circuit board as shown. Make sure it is the BC0919 and NOT the LTV847. There is no need for a socket here since this chip is just a bunch of resistors and won't be easily damaged by static or heat. There is a notch in this chip which should line up with the notch in the image of the socket. Once you are sure the notch is aligned correctly and you have the BC0919 chip, turn the board over and hold the socket in with a finger, tack two corners pins to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.



Install the mini push button into the circuit board as shown. It will snap into place when it is properly installed. Flip the board over and solder it into place.


(Note this button is used to reset the microcontroller and unless you are programming the device you probably won't use this button.)



Place the 10K ohm resistor into the circuit board as shown. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold it in place while soldering. Flip the board over and solder it into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Put the SIP8 47 Ohm Resistor Array into the circuit board as shown. Make sure the dot on the chip is near the “1” on the board image. Turn the board over and hold the this resistor array in with a finger, tack the two pins on the end to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.



Put the 3.5 mm jacks into the circuit board as shown. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Make sure these are soldered flush against the circuit board or they won't fit into the case design.



Place the two 10 uF capacitors into the circuit board as shown. These are polarized capacitors which means you must solder them in with the correct orientation. The longer wire should go into the hole marked with a plus sign. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold them in place. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Put the break away header into the circuit board as shown. Turn the board over and hold it in with a finger, tack the two pins on the end to keep it in place then solder the rest of the pins.


(Note this is only used to when programming the microcontroller.)



Place the 2 and 3 hole 3.5 mm screw terminal headers into the circuit board as shown. Turn the board over and solder them into place.



Place the two NPN 2222 transistors into the circuit board as shown. Make sure the flat sides of the transistors match the image on the board. (Note: The rightmost transistor in the image is installed backwards so don't let that confuse you. The pictures at the end show this transistor installed correctly.) Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold them in place. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Place the 5V regulator into the circuit board as shown. Make sure the metal heat sink is facing towards the inside of the board as shown in the picture. Bend the wires sticking through the back outwards a little to hold them in place. Flip the board over and solder them into place. Then use wire cutters to clip off the extra wires sticking out the back; cut close to the end of the solder joint.



Install the LTV847 optoisolater into the 16 pin socket you previously soldered onto the board and the ATMega168 into the 28 pin socket you previously soldered onto the board. These chips have a dot and/or notch in them. This must line up with the notch in the sockets.


Press firmly until they don't go in any more. Look carefully to make sure all the pins went into the socket and didn't get bent to the side while pressing them into the socket.



Note that these buttons are soldered to the back of the circuit board. Make sure you flip the board before putting them into the circuit board as show in the picture. On the back of the board put the six high quality push buttons into the circuit board as shown. Press them firmly until they are all the way in their holes. Flip the board over and solder them into place.



  • Compare the board to the pictures below to make sure everything looks correct.

  • Look at the solder joints to make sure they look good.

  • Use flux remover spray or rubbing alcohol/toothbrush to take the flux off the board.



Here are some images of the finished circuit board.







Case Assembly



Image

Description



If you ordered the kit all the button holes and a large rectangular hole have been cut into the case via a CNC machine. If you are building it without the kit use a Dremel and drill to make these holes (note the drill guide in the next step has all the holes marked).



Cut out the “Drill Guide” sticker. Leave it as one piece that wraps around the case as shown in the picture. Test putting it on the case before removing the sticker backing. Peel of the sticker backing and stick the sticker to the case. Make sure everything is lined up or you will have problems later when installing the circuit board.


If you don't have the kit and want to print your own label, you can get the pdf here.



Use a center punch on the following holes on the “Drill Guide”:

  • 4x “3.5 mm Jack” holes

  • 1x “Power” hole


If you don't have a center punch you can skip to the next step, but be extra careful to drill on the hole centers.



Drill a pilot 1/16 inch hole for all holes.


Then drill the holes to the correct size as marked on the drill guide sticker. Optionally you can use other drills between 1/16 and the final sized hole to make it easier. As the drill guide says, all the “3.5 mm Jack” holes should be 1/4 inch. The power hole should be 1/2 or 5/8 inch depending on which power switch you are using.


Then remove the “Drill Guide” sticker.



Make sure all the hex nuts are removed from the buttons on the circuit board or the buttons won't fit through the holes in the case. Now install the circuit board. You will need to flex out the sides of the case a little to get the the sides in. Be gentle and take your time. It goes in without much force once you have everything in the correct place.


You don't want to put the board in diagonally and then push the other side down. This won't work because the buttons won't go in correctly. The circuit board must be eased into position while keeping it parallel to the bottom of the case.



This is what the top will look like after the circuit board has been installed.



Now take the 3 longer wires and solder put them into the LCD screen holes on the picture and then flip the board over and solder them. Make sure you keep the wires angles in the direction they are on this picture so they reach main circuit board. Use this picture as a guide on which color wire goes where.



Now slide the LCD screen into it's hole. Make sure it is not upside down. Then when the screen in flush with the case use a hot glue gun (or thick glue) to tack down the four corners of the LCD screen. If you don't know whether your glue is conductive or not make sure you don't glue anything that could cause a short. The easiest way to do this is using a small amount of glue on the four corners of the LCD screen.



Now use a small Philips screwdriver to hold the LCD wires on to the main circuit board. The red wire should go to “+5V”, black to “GND”, and green to “TX0”.



Solder the short red wire to the center pin on the power switch.


(Note these switches are sensitive to excessive heat when soldering so be careful to use use as little heating as possible when soldering them.)



Install the switch into the case and screw the switch's nut tight as shown in the picture. Next solder the red wire from the 9V plug to the other pin on the power switch.



Use a Philips screwdriver to attach the black wire from the 9V battery plug into GND on the board and short red wire that's solder to the power plug into the +9V spot on the circuit board.



If the corners of your foam aren't cut off do that and any other trimming needed so that foam fits into the bottom of the case. Then peel the covering off the sticky tape on the foam.



When sticking the foam on to the case put the 9V battery wire under the sticky tape as you stick it down. This helps keep the plug from wiggling around too much and possibly over stressing the solder joint of the red wire on the power plug.



Install the battery.


If you haven't tested it yet connect the 9V battery and make sure the screen turns on when you turn on the power switch.



Cut out the “Final Label” sticker. Make sure you also cut out the 6 button holes. Test putting it on before removing the sticker backing. Once your are sure it will fit properly remove the sticker backing and stick it on as shown in the picture.



Last step is installing the 6 hex nuts for the buttons. Use a pliers or wrench to get them snug, but don't make them over tight or you will damage the label.


You are done!



Here are some finished pictures of the Camera Axe: